DJI Goggles and Drone Compatibility: I Break Down Every Headset and Which Drones They Work With

Not sure which DJI Goggle works with your drone? Well, you’re not alone. Compatibility is a little bit complicated, but you don’t need to read through all the user manuals and random foreign posts. We did the hard work for you, and in this article I’m going to explain which DJI Goggles are compatible with which drones, plus a few more that we don’t have on the table, and which combination might be right for you.

Why Compatibility Is So Confusing

To understand which DJI Goggles will work with your drone, you need to understand why there are differences in the first place. So let’s talk about the transmission system.

Newer DJI models on the market tend to use either the O3 — which stands for OcuSync 3 — or the O4 air unit video transmission system. The older O3 system provides low latency HD video. It’s used in drones like the Avata, for example, and the DJI FPV. Meanwhile, the improved range and stability of the O4 system powers newer models like the Air 3 and the Mini 4 Pro.

Now, remember, firmware here actually matters a lot, because DJI releases these drones and then eventually updates the firmware to make them compatible with goggles. So you always want to make sure that you have the most up-to-date firmware available on your drone. You can head over to DJI’s downloads page to find all of the latest firmware requirements.

A few things to consider when you’re shopping for goggles: focus on checking the specs for range and latency. These factors determine how far you can actually fly your drone and how quickly the video feed is going to respond, and this directly affects your flight experience.

Range really depends on the frequency. Drone video transmission systems typically use frequencies between 2.4 and 5.8 GHz. The lower transmission frequencies, like 2.4, are going to travel further, expanding the range — but there’s a catch. This can also reduce the quality of the video feed at longer ranges. You may experience more interference in areas with high Wi-Fi and Bluetooth signal density. On the other hand, higher frequency bands like 5.8 GHz are going to ensure that you have a clearer video feed with less interference from Wi-Fi. And that’s why 5.8 GHz is typically a better option for FPV flights.

The downside with all of these higher frequencies is that they have a shorter range with less penetration through walls or trees. This is why some of the new goggles offer dual-band capabilities, automatically switching between 2.4 and 5.8 GHz. This adaptive technique — they call it frequency hopping — helps minimize interference. It’s also very important to note that different regions in the world use different frequencies. This can actually impact the reported range that DJI gives you for each of the goggles I’m going to mention here. If you see FCC, that means the United States, which typically gives you the longer range. CE is for Europe, SRRC is for China, and MIC is in Japan.

Another factor to consider is latency. That’s the time it takes for the image coming from the drone to reach the goggle display, and it’s typically measured in milliseconds. Lower latency means the video gets from the drone to the goggles faster. This is really essential when you fly FPV or racing drones that depend on fast reaction time — it’s going to make a big difference. Higher latency causes longer delays. While that may actually work for aerial photography, higher latency can make fast and precise movement a lot more difficult.

DJI FPV Goggles V2

All right, time to talk about all of these, plus one more that we actually don’t have. We’re going to cover five different models in detail, including how to update the firmware, how to connect them to the drone, and which drones they’re compatible with. We’ll start with the FPV Goggles V2, then the Goggles 2, then the Integra (which isn’t here), then the Goggles 3, and lastly the Goggles N3. The N3 is the latest as we are recording this video.

Let’s get started with the DJI FPV Goggles V2. Now, you might be wondering why we call them Goggles V2. Well, there was a V1. So these are Goggles 1, if you want to think about it that way — Goggles 1, 2, and then 3. These are Goggles 1 version two. The very first version was not for FPV drones. That’s why they call it the FPV Goggles, and then they put a V2 on there because it’s still the first model, just a version two, if that makes any sense. This one was specifically designed for the original line of FPV drones, meaning the DJI FPV and the original Avata. You can see, based on the colors, this was really the first FPV drone we got from DJI.

The goggles have a dual 2-inch screen with 1440 resolution inside, and they offer a built-in microSD card slot that supports cards as big as 256 GB. The V2 model uses the O3 air unit transmission system, which features improved signal reliability and reduces the chance of interference. For being kind of a first version, it was actually pretty good. In the US, these goggles have a range of about 6.2 miles, that’s 10 km, and they have a low-latency 810p mode at 120 frames per second with a latency of 28 ms. If you’re comparing this to other analog goggles on the market, it’s going to come nowhere near — it’s going to be a lot slower with longer latency — but for digital, it’s actually not too bad. In comparison, that high-quality 810p mode at 60 frames per second has a latency as low as 40 ms.

As far as updating the firmware and pairing the goggles to the DJI FPV, all of that is actually pretty easy. You’re going to connect the drone to the DJI Fly app on your mobile device, then make sure that the drone and the goggles are fully charged and powered on. You’ll plug the adapter cord into the goggles, plug the USB cable into the adapter, and then into your mobile device from the other end. The app should launch and recognize that the drone and the goggles are connected right away.

You can also update the goggles firmware without the drone, just using the DJI Assistant 2 software on your computer. To do that, plug the goggles directly into the computer using a USB cord, then launch DJI Assistant 2 — make sure you have the right version, because there are a whole bunch of versions. Then select the goggles and follow the on-screen prompts to update the firmware.

Updating the Avata itself is a little bit more complicated, unfortunately. Make sure the firmware is up to date on both devices, then power on the Avata and the goggles. You’re going to press and hold the power button on the drone to put it into pairing mode. Be careful here — press and hold, not double-tap and hold, which is how you turn on the drone. This is different. Just press and hold. The light is going to start flashing in a sequential order, and then you’ll put the goggles into pairing mode as well. For this, you’re going to need a straightened paper clip or a SIM card ejector tool — something very skinny that can get in there — and look for the recessed red button near the power connection port. Once everything’s connected and the goggles stop beeping, go into the settings menu in the goggles, scroll down, and choose the About section. At the very bottom of the menu, click on “switch aircraft models,” where you can switch to the Avata. At that point, you should see the video feed displayed on the goggles, coming from the drone itself.

DJI Goggles 2

Now let’s talk about the Goggles 2. I know it sounds a whole lot like the previous model, the FPV Goggles V2, but it’s not the same. This is the Goggles 2. This is a great choice because of the video quality, the range, and the low latency. And because it’s an older model, it’s actually budget-friendly.

The goggles feature two screens with — impressive for the time — 1080 resolution each, and they support microSD cards up to 256 GB for local storage of your FPV footage. Both the O3 and O4 air units are compatible with the Goggles 2, giving you a wide range of compatibility across FPV and camera drones. It uses a dual-band system that switches between 2.4 and 5.8 GHz as needed. As far as range, these goggles are rated for 6.2 miles as well, that’s 10 km.

And just like the others, we have a low-latency situation that’s going to make flying fast a lot better, especially if you’re doing aerial maneuvers. At 1080p 100 frames per second, latency can be as low as 30 ms. At a higher quality 1080p 60 frames per second, you’ll see latency as low as 40 ms.

Like I hinted before, the Goggles 2 offer wider compatibility with more drones — not just FPV drones like the Avata, the Avata 2, and the DJI FPV drone, but they’re also popular with consumer cameras like the Air 3, the Mini 3, the Mini 3 Pro, and the Mavic 3 series. These goggles can also be paired with the DJI FPV Remote Controller 2 and the RC Motion 2, which unfortunately I don’t have on the table here.

If you want to learn more about how to use any of these drones, or even some of the goggles, make sure you take a look at our deep dive courses. These are completely free courses, no catch — you just put in your email and name, and we’ll give you access. We go into a lot more detail on nearly every single drone model made in the last five or six years. You can check out the link in the description.

Something important to note here: when you’re using goggles, some features may not be available. For instance, some of the intelligent flight modes — options like zoom, smart shots, waypoint flights, master shots, and quick shots — are not supported when you’re wearing the goggles. For the Mavic 3 series, FocusTrack is also not supported with the goggles. That said, the Mavic 3 and the Mavic 3 Pro are able to fly in Explorer mode when using the goggles, which is when you can zoom in using the technology called Explorer in the Mavic 3 Pro.

When the Motion Controller is added to the mix, drones like the Avata 2 and the Mini 3 Pro allow for head tracking. This is pretty cool — it’s where you can control the drone’s yaw by turning your head, or the tilt of the gimbal just by moving, while you’re wearing the goggles. It’s a funny thing to do, and it’s very useful in some situations.

Before pairing these goggles with a compatible drone, you can use DJI Assistant 2 on your computer to check and install firmware updates for the Goggles 2. Just make sure you’re using the consumer drone version, since there are a bunch of different versions of Assistant 2. First, connect your goggles to the computer using a USB-C cable. Then launch DJI Assistant 2 and select the Goggles 2. From here, click firmware update to show the latest firmware available. If needed, click update. To link the devices, charge both of them and make sure they’re both powered on. Press the link button between the two screens on the inside of the goggles — a different place than the previous version — and hold it until the goggles start to beep. Then on the drone, press and hold the power button until the battery LEDs start blinking; it’ll make a beep as well. The LEDs will stop blinking and turn solid when linking is complete, and the goggles should stop beeping. Check the video feed in the goggles to make sure they’re paired, and you’re all set.

If you want to link a different aircraft, go into the goggles menu, click on status, then select switch to choose a new aircraft. Follow the on-screen instructions to finish switching. It’s a lot easier than the FPV Goggles V2 — those were a pain if you wanted to switch between drones.

DJI Goggles Integra

We also wanted to add the Goggles Integra into the mix. I don’t have a pair — I don’t think we ever received or purchased one, because the Goggles 2 was actually pretty nice. By the way, I’m talking about all of these goggles in the order they were released. So the FPV Goggles V2 was first, the Goggles 2 second, and the Integra was next.

We don’t have it, but they were compatible with FPV drones and aerial photography drones. They also featured crisp dual micro-OLED displays with 1080p resolution. They were pretty comfortable, all-in-one, with a battery strap design to provide a smarter balance — where the battery was connected to the back. The first two generations didn’t have that; the other three did. These are compatible with the Avata and the Avata 2 FPV drones, and the goggles were also compatible with a wider range of non-FPV cameras, like the Mini 4 Pro, the Mini 3 Pro, the Air 3, the Mavic 3 Pro, and the Mavic 3 drones.

Unlike some of the other goggles, intelligent flight modes and functions are actually supported when using the Mini 4 Pro, the Mini 3 Pro, and the Air 3. And when paired with the Mavic 3 Pro or the Mavic 3 — the Mavic 3 series in general — you can still use Explore mode, which activates that zoom lens, letting you zoom up to 28x. DJI claims that at 1080p 100 frames per second, latency is as low as 30 ms, and at 1080p 60 frames per second the latency drops to 40 ms — the same specs as the Goggles 2, which is pretty impressive considering this is an older model.

DJI Goggles 3

Next up is the DJI Goggles 3, the most advanced DJI goggles available at the moment. I know there’s another model that’s a little cheaper and not as advanced, but we’ll get to that. The Goggles 3 were designed to offer the sharpest image with upgraded dual micro-OLED screens. Users actually love the cockpit feel these goggles provide, with very responsive head tracking when paired with the RC Motion Controller 3, which is compatible with them. They’re also super lightweight and pretty well balanced, using the battery pack in the back, which makes them pretty comfortable.

They should be comfortable, because they have an impressive potential 3 hours of flight time. The microSD card slot is capable of up to 512 GB, which is a lot more than double what we’ve seen in the other models. The Goggles 3 also pair with DJI’s latest FPV drone models, like the Neo, the Neo 2, and the Avata 2. These may not be considered FPV drones — I questioned that for a second — but they actually are. The Neo 2 is the most recent one that came out, and it’s actually one of my favorite recently released drones.

Something to note here: the intelligent flight modes, like quick shots, are not supported when you’re flying the Neo paired with these goggles. One advantage, though, is that when paired with the Avata 2, the Goggles 3 produce super low latency speeds, sometimes as low as 24 ms. That drone and goggle combo can also be paired with the DJI FPV Remote Controller 3, offering a more responsive FPV experience if that’s something you really want to do.

Not surprisingly, the Goggles 3 are not compatible with as many non-FPV camera drones compared to their predecessor. They only officially pair with the Mini 4 Pro and the DJI Air 3. And of course, as always, when you use them with these camera drones, it disables intelligent flight modes such as FocusTrack, MasterShot, QuickShot, and Waypoint Flight. Also note that with the Mini 4 Pro, it does not support portrait mode, manual focus, or enhanced transmission. The Air 3 — not the Air 3S, the Air 3 — also does not support camera switching, gimbal parameter setting changes, or manual focus.

Now, something important here: DJI states that the video transmission is displayed only in the goggles and not in the DJI Fly app. This means you won’t be able to monitor the live feed on your phone when you’re using the goggles. Now, you might say, “Well, I’m using the goggles. Why do I need the live feed?” Well, if somebody else wanted to look at it, they wouldn’t be able to. So instead, all of the framing and flight decisions must be done from inside the headset itself.

To get the latest goggle firmware, you’ll need to use the DJI Fly app: select profile, then device management, locate the Goggles 3, select firmware update, and follow the on-screen instructions. To link the Goggles 3 with your drone, power on both the drone and the goggles and make sure they’re fully charged. Both also need the latest firmware updates installed. In the goggle settings, go to status and make sure the drone model is displayed at the top of the menu correctly. If not, select switch from the upper right corner of the menu and select a different drone. From there, press and hold the power button on both the goggles and the drone — again, press and hold, not double-press and hold — to put them into pairing mode. The battery LEDs on the drone will flash in that sequential order, and the goggles will beep continuously, which is pretty annoying. If your connection is successful, the battery LEDs will return to displaying just the battery level, and the video feed will show up in the goggle screen.

Overall, the mix of low latency, the crisp micro-OLED visuals, and the modern comfort make the Goggles 3 one of the best — an excellent choice for both FPV and aerial photography, if that’s what you want to do. But only if you have the right drone model, because it doesn’t work with all of them.

DJI Goggles N3

Moving on to the next one: the Goggles N3. That’s the Goggles N3, not 3 V2, and not Goggles 4. These are the newest headsets. They have 2.7 hours of flight time and a single 3.5-inch LCD screen, as opposed to the dual screen we’ve seen so far. This has a resolution of 1080p. This model can also take a 512 GB microSD card, which is a big upgrade from the other ones. But all of these extra features come at a weight cost — it’s heavier than the Goggles 3 and a lot more bulky.

It also has the O4 air unit, which opens up compatibility with newer FPV drones like the Neo, Neo 2, and the Avata 2. It offers more stable video performance and minimal interference because of that new technology, and it’s got low latency, which helps a lot with the movements you’re making with your drone. When you pair them with the Avata 2, these goggles can reach up to 8 miles in the United States with FCC approval, and with that drone, latency can be as low as 31 ms at 1080p 100 frames per second. With the Neo 2, the range drops to 6.2 miles and latency is around 58 ms at 1080p 60 frames per second, which is quite a bit. And like the Goggles 2, the N3 also supports head tracking when paired with the RC Motion 3 controller.

The DJI Fly app typically handles N3 activation and firmware updates. With the DJI Fly app open, plug your phone directly into the goggles using the approved USB-C cable and follow the on-screen instructions. As far as linking the Goggles N3 to your drone, there are two ways to do it. First, you can use the DJI Fly app: power on your goggles and your drone, plug your data-capable OTG cord into the goggles and connect it to your phone, then open the DJI Fly app. If prompted to install any recommended firmware update, make sure you do that, and follow the on-screen instructions. When prompted, press connect and select the aircraft model. Then click connect via mobile device and allow the app to access your Wi-Fi network. Press and hold the power button to put the drone into pairing mode, then follow the on-screen instructions to select the aircraft and connect it.

You can also physically link through the device buttons. Press and hold the power button for at least 5 seconds — your aircraft will start beeping and the battery LEDs will light up in that sequence. Then press and hold the power button on the goggles until you hear beeping; the power button will also blink yellow. Once they’re paired, your drone battery LEDs will turn solid and return to normal, and the goggles will stop beeping. Again, make sure you have the image displayed inside the feed.

Despite the large size — and I’ve got to show you guys this thing — the Goggles N3 make quite a good beginner combo if you’re pairing it with the DJI Avata, for example. They’re cheaper, and you can tell there’s a reason they released them, but it’s not really sacrificing all that much quality. Also, something cool to note: at the time of recording, the DJI Avata 360 is compatible with two goggles. Now, that may change in the future. The DJI Goggles 3 and the DJI Goggles N3 pairing works the same way I’ve shown you for the other models. We’ve been testing the Avata 360 quite a bit, and it’s pretty fun to fly. Our full review for the Avata 360 includes a full breakdown of the goggles, the controller, the editing process — which is very important — and the overall quality of the drone, so if you want to know more about the Avata 360, there’s a link in the description.

Now, if you hadn’t noticed by now, the latest DJI drone models are not compatible with any goggles that DJI sells. At the time of recording, the Mavic 4 Pro, the Air 3S, and the Mini 5 are not compatible with any of these DJI goggles at all. But there’s hope, potentially, in the future — maybe with a firmware update, which we’ve seen happen before. In the event that this or anything else happens, we’re going to talk about it in our weekly UAS news update. This is what we publish every Friday on this YouTube channel, where we keep you up to date with everything going on in the drone world in a very short 5- to 10-minute video. So make sure you catch it next time.

Whether you’re looking for that cool full immersion of an FPV drone or just a crisp live view of your aerial photography drone, this is the setup you need — just using the goggles. And as always, make sure you check out the library of all the deep dive courses we have. We talk about goggles when they’re compatible, and we have detailed classes on the Mini and Air series and many, many more drones from other brands as well. And yes, they are completely free.

This article is based on a video from the Pilot Institute YouTube channel. You can find more from Greg Reverdiau on his DroneXL author page.